The origins of the Teddy Boys go back to the late
1940's when Seville Row Tailor's attempted to revive the styles of the reign of
King Edward VII, 1901-1910, known as the Edwardian era, into men's fashions.
The Teddy Boy fashion of the fifties has its origins in what was an upper class
reaction to the austerity imposed by the socialist government in the years
following the World War II. For teenagers today it is probably impossible to
imagine living in post war Britain. Rationing was still in force and for the
youth of the working population, employment began at fifteen for a forty eight
hour week, to earn less than £4.Clothes for example were conservative and
mainly muted, cars were black or dark shades, the likes of sparkling metal
flake paint had not yet arrived, unlike now even newspapers were devoid of color and clearly life for many could be exceedingly down beat.
Juvenile crime was escalating and as it is often said the
devil makes mischief for idle hands he possibly had a ball inciting the most
notorious breed of wild youth that emerged from that period. This was the
Edwardian Brigade, the drape coat fraternity, branded Teddy Boys by the media
around the latter part of 1953.They were the villains of the time, taking over
from the spivs and cosh boys.
It is believed that the style actually started out in London
as a discreet post war Saville Row revival, based on Edwardian aristocracy, but
was appropriated by now the more affluent working boys of the day. In the
beginning their outfit consisted of a high or fingertip length, four-button
drape in black or somber, colour,
possibly with a velvet collar, sometimes referred to as a ‘coffin coat’. This
was first worn over a matching waistcoat, later becoming brocade, prominently
displaying a chain of the requisite fob watch. A high collar shirt, black
ribbon or ‘Slim Jim tie’, high waisted trousers with 16″ bottoms with turn-ups
and heavy brogue shoes completed the outfit. Chunky rings were also worn and
the whole ensemble was finished off with a distinctive haircut in the style of
the film actor Tony Curtis, achieved by using copious amounts of Brylcreem and
water. There were variations of the ‘uniform’ and haircut in different cities
throughout the country.
Teddy girls (also known as Judies) wore drape jackets,
pencil skirts, hobble skirts, long plaits, rolled-up jeans, flat shoes,
tailored jackets with velvet collars, straw boater hats, cameo brooches,
espadrilles, coolie hats and long, elegant clutch bags. Later they adopted the
American fashions of toreador pants, voluminous circle skirts, and hair in
ponytails.Their choice of clothes wasn't only for aesthetic effect: these
girls were collectively rejecting post-war austerity. They were young
working-class women, often from Irish immigrant families who had settled in the
poorer districts of London — Waltham tow, Poplar and North Kensington. They
would typically leave school at the age of 14 or 15, and work in factories or
offices. Teddy Girls spent much of their free time buying or making their
trademark clothes. It was a head-turning, fastidious style from the fashion
houses, which had launched haute-couture clothing lines recalling the Edwardian
era.
Today, the Edwardian image and lifestyle is very much alive and kicking.
The uniform is practically unchanged, the haircuts, the music are still the
same. At Rock n Roll clubs throughout the land Teddy Boys still strut their
stuff on the dance floors, bopping and jiving to their favorite records. The
only difference is that the aggressiveness of their predecessors as all but
gone, the fighting in cinemas and the weapons are but a thing of the past. But
one thing is for sure, the great British Teddy Boy is here to stay.!!!!
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